Exotic Photo Safari

Tribute To The Rainforest

The Exotic Photo Safari encompasses some of the most rugged, picturesque
and dramatic scenery on the island.
Form Roseau we travel along the west coast road to Portsmouth to join
Northern Link Road form Savanne Paille and on to villages like Delaford, Penville, Vielle Case and Tibaud.

A 20 minute walk from th road will take us to the “Cold Soufrière” which are best described by
Arlington James of the Division of Forestry and Wildlife
“The Cold Soufrière is located in an old volcanic crater which is partially contained by the northern slopes of Bellevue Mountain on the northern foothills of Morne aux Diables. This area is located at approximately 1,500 ft above sea level and can be reached by a dirt road which connects the hamlets of Delaford on the windward side and Guillet on the leeward side of the island. Driving up to Soufrière from the village of Penville through Delaford, one will obtain some breath-taking views of the northern part of Dominica and on clear days views of the French Dependencies of Marie Galante and la Desirade. The Cold Soufrière proper can be reached via a short track (8 minutes) which passes plots of dasheen and heading downhill from the Delaford-Guillet Road.

“Cold Soufrière” comprises an area of exposed rock measuring 75 ft in diameter. The exposed area is generally barren, but is fringed by a dense forest of Kaklen trees (Clusia sp.) which all bear prop roots. The stand of Clusia, whose fruit resembles that of the Mangosteen, quickly gives way to a forest of Bwa bandé, Laurier, Ti Citron and other trees. One might also find a small plant (Leiphamos aphylla) with neither green pigment nor leaves, but which shows up as a single golden coloured flower on a short stalk. Another fascinating feature about this Cold Soufrière is the presence of thick mats of a bright green moss growing in very waterlogged areas, indicating the presence of springs in the area.

The animal life in the Cold Soufrière and environs includes butterflies and other insects, Anolis tree lizards, Scaly-breasted Thrasher, Lesser Antillean Bullfinch, Trembler and the semi-endemic Blue-headed Hummingbird. There are many claims of a “Kavalaj tet-chien” ( a congregation of boa constrictors for mating) in the valley downstream of the Cold Soufrière. Unlike some other Caribbean islands, Dominica has no poisonous snakes.

There are over seventeen pools in the Cold Soufrière. These are all small, shallow and bubbling, in the exposed area and on the fringing forest. The temperature of the water in the various pools ranges from 23.5° C to 28° C (74° F to 82.5° F) and the deepest pool is only about 26 inches deep; the surface of that pool is 13 inches below the ground. A small amount of sulphur is also evident in this area. Locals claim that the sulphur and water are a good skin cleanser and the mud can be used as a face mask.

The liquid in the pools in the Cold Soufrière is also very acidic, with acidities nearing that of very strong vinegar. Some of these pools contain very clear water while the water in other pools is brown to tan in colour. Some of the pools bubble vigorously.

During the dry season, the water levels in the pools drop significantly, with some pools drying up temporarily. Then, one would hear the hissing sound of gases escaping through the bottom of the dry pools. It has been suggested that the Cold Soufrière sits atop an area of cool magma which is still able to release gas under some pressure.”

Later we move on along our dramatic and picture perfect drive with vistas which cannot be adequately described by words, flanking every side of the road.

If one stretches the imagination one could almost imagine the hand of God in one momentous and tempestuous stroke of infinite genius fashioning such an ineffable marvel to brighten our spirits and lighten our hearts.

We continue until we get to the trail leading to the Bwa Nef Falls - now we begin our jungle trek up the river gorge.
Flanked by lush vegetation, serenaded by the river and assiduously watched by the surrounding
mountains we struggle along until we get to one of Dominica’s marvel.

Photo: Ruud Van Baal General Manager of the Fort Young Hotel hiking to Bwa Nef Waterfall.

The hike is 20-30 minutes but it will test you balance and boulder walking
abilities to the limit and it gives you a taste of the rugged nature of the topography of Dominica.

After the trek back to the vehicle we continue along and talk about the various crops
growing in the area, yams, bananas, plantains, dasheen and other root crops are plentiful
The islands of The Saints, Guadeloupe and Marigalante can be clearly seen as we travel along. Photo stops which are a must will be numerous.

We will do a drive through tour of the Village of Vielle Case which also carries the name of
Itassi as it was named by the Kalinago People

Vielle Case is the home of our current Prime Minister, and Political Leader of the Dominica Labour Party, the Hon. Roosevelt Skerrit.

Hon. Roosevelt Skerrit Prime Minister Of Dominica

To elaborate more on the village of Vielle case, I will use the words of our local historian

Dr. Lennox Honychurch.

"A village on the north coast situated on sloping land directly above ravines and sea cliffs created by volcanic outflows from the volcano of Morne Aux Diables. Due to its inaccessibility this area was still occupied by Caribs for over two hundred years after being sighted by Christopher Columbus. There are archaeological sites at Au Tou and Au Parc.

The Bay of Au Tou, whrere scenes form Pirates Of The Caribbean were filmed

The Carib name for the area is Itassi. The first recorded contact with the French was made between the Carib Chief Kalamiena of Itassi and Father Raymond Breton, a French Roman Catholic missionary of the Dominican Order then based in Guadeloupe. Breton lived among the Caribs of Itassi off and on from 1642 to 1648. Here in the chief's longhouse or karbay, he celebrated the first recorded Christian Mass with the inhabitants of Dominica in 1646. Through Chief Kalamiena and subsequent chiefs such as Le Baron, close French links were developed between the people of Itassi and the French in Basseterre, Guadeloupe. Two Carib men of Itassi were taken to France to train as priests; one died in France and the other returned but reverted to his former traditions. The contact with Guadeloupe encouraged settlers from poor white (petite blanc) families, who were being sidelined by the expansion of sugar industry in Guadeloupe, to come and settle among the Caribs. Most of the Caribs intermixed with these French smallholders and therefore many Vieille Case families have French and African as well as Carib ancestry".

Continuing on through the village of Tibaud with more incredible coastline views, we make our way to the main road leading back to Portsmouth.

we will take the road to Portsmouth, where more stunning and amazing views await.

All things which begin must end, from Portsmouth, we travel down the west coast road and back to base

Time 6-7 hours

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Author and Site Contents :Ken George Dill